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Belay Device Review: A Comprehensive Analysis
Published: February 28, 2024
Looking for the best belay device? Our comprehensive review provides in-depth analysis and comparisons to help you make an informed decision.
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Are you a rock climbing enthusiast looking for the perfect belay device? Look no further! In this comprehensive analysis of various belay devices, we will delve into the features, pros, and cons of each device to help you make an informed decision. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned climber, our review will provide you with all the necessary information to choose the right belay device for your next adventure. So stay tuned for our detailed analysis of the best belay devices on the market!
Overall Score: 8.5/10
The PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device is a cam-assisted blocking device for sport, trad, and top-rope climbing. With a 3:1 mechanical advantage, it helps control the rope smoothly and reduce lowering efforts, compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes. The ergonomic design and comfortable handling make it simple to use for belaying lead and top rope climbers. The durable, compact, and lightweight build makes it a reliable option for climbers at any level.
Key Features
- Progressive Descent Control: 3:1 mechanical advantage for smooth rope control
- Cam Assisted Blocking: Automatically cinches down to arrest the rope
- Comfortable Convenient: Ergonomic, simple to use for both lead and top-rope climbers
- Rope Compatibility: Compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes
Specifications
- Color: Blue
- Dimension: 8.00Lx5.00Wx2.00H
- Size: Diâmetro de corda: 8,5 a 11 mm
Pros
- Progressive descent control for smooth handling
- Cam-assisted blocking for automatic rope arrest
- Ergonomic design for comfortable use
- Compatible with a wide range of rope diameters
Cons
- Expensive price point
- Some users received incorrect colors
The PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device offers a reliable and comfortable belaying experience for climbers at any level. While it may come at a higher price, the cam-assisted blocking and ergonomic design make it a valuable investment for those serious about climbing and safety. Its compatibility with a range of rope diameters adds to its versatility, making it a worthwhile addition to any climber’s gear bag.
Overall Score: 9/10
The BLACK DIAMOND Equipment ATC-Xp Belay/Rappel Device in Blue is a versatile and durable device for climbers. It offers high-friction mode, machined windows, and durable cable. It is designed to accept ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm and is available in individual colors. Users have found it to be a good quick belay device, easy to use, and offering good value for money. However, it may not work well with ropes over 9mm in diameter for certain activities. Overall, it's a solid construction, handle ropes from 9mm to 11mm, and comes with easy-to-understand instructions.
Key Features
- High-friction mode
- Machined windows for weight savings
- Durable cable
- Accepts ropes 7.7 to 11 mm
- Available in individual colors
Specifications
- Color: Blue
- Dimension: 7.60Lx7.30Wx4.70H
- Size: One Size
Pros
- Versatile and durable
- Good quick belay device
- Easy to use
- Solid construction
- Handles 9mm to 11mm ropes
- Comes with easy-to-understand instructions
Cons
- May not work well with ropes over 9mm in diameter
The BLACK DIAMOND Equipment ATC-Xp Belay/Rappel Device is a reliable and well-designed tool for climbers. It offers versatility and ease of use, with a few limitations on rope diameter. Overall, it’s a great addition to any climbing kit, providing safety and confidence during belay and rappelling activities.
Overall Score: 8/10
The PETZL GRIGRI + Belay Device is an essential device for climbers, with cam-assisted blocking that ensures a comfortable belay, an anti-panic handle, and multiple belay modes. It also features a steel wear plate for extra protection, and a 3:1 mechanical advantage for smooth rope control. Suitable for learners and intensive use, this device is compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes, making it versatile and reliable for climbing experiences of all kinds.
Key Features
- PROGRESSIVE DESCENT CONTROL: 3:1 mechanical advantage
- CAM-ASSISTED BLOCKING: Comfortable belay, automatically cinches down
- ANTI-PANIC HANDLE: Engages when user pulls too hard
- MULTIPLE BELAY MODES: Allows you to choose top rope or lead belay mode
- STEEL WEAR PLATE: Provides extra protection for high-wear area
Specifications
- Color: Orange
- Dimension: 14.37Lx11.22Wx1.18H
- Size: One-Size
Pros
- Smooth rope control with 3:1 mechanical advantage
- Comfortable belay with cam-assisted blocking
- Versatile – compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm ropes
- Extra protection with steel wear plate
- Appropriate for learners and intensive use
Cons
- Anti-panic feature may be difficult for some users
- Panic feature can be inconvenient for rappelling
- Locks up if lever is extended too far
- Regular grigri may be preferred by experienced climbers
The PETZL GRIGRI + Belay Device offers a unique combination of safety features and ease of use, making it an ideal choice for learners and climbers undergoing intensive use. While some users may find the anti-panic feature challenging, the overall performance and reliability of this device make it a valuable and versatile addition to any climber’s gear.
Overall Score: 9/10
The BLACK DIAMOND ATC Pilot Belay Device provides an added level of security to single pitch belays. It features steel construction, a smooth rope payout, and controlled lowering. This device accommodates ropes from 8.7-10.5 and can be used with a single rope. It has an ergonomic, non-slip surface and comes in black. It is lightweight, easy to use, and adds an extra layer of safety for climbers. The device is especially suitable for left-handed belayers, and it is recommended for both new and experienced climbers. The BLACK DIAMOND ATC Pilot Belay Device is versatile, simple, and provides an affordable belay solution.
Key Features
- Accommodates ropes from 8.7-10.5
- Provides an added level of security to single pitch belays
- Smooth rope payout
- Controlled lowering
- Steel construction
- Ergonomic, non-slip surface
- Single rope use
Specifications
- Color: Black
- Dimension: 4.00Lx2.00Wx1.00H
- Size: One Size
Pros
- Added layer of security for climbers
- Versatile and simple to use
- Suitable for left-handed belayers
- Lightweight and affordable
Cons
- Cheaper to buy in person
- Material can be hard on locking biner
The BLACK DIAMOND ATC Pilot Belay Device is a versatile, affordable, and reliable option for climbers. It provides an added layer of security and is suitable for both new and experienced climbers. Despite minor drawbacks, such as the material being hard on the locking biner, it offers a smooth rope payout and controlled lowering. The device is particularly suitable for left-handed belayers and offers simple, effective safety for climbers.
Overall Score: 8/10
The WILDKEN Professional Rappel ATC Belay Device is an essential safety equipment for rock climbing, tree arborist, caving, rescue, and aerial work. It is made of high-quality magnesium alloy, lightweight, and durable, suitable for 8-12mm diameter ropes. The V-shaped friction groove and dual slot design ensure a smoother descent process and versatility in rope usage. This belay device is well-developed for various vertical endeavors, ensuring safety, reliability, and control during descents and falls.
Key Features
- Durable material made of high-quality magnesium alloy
- V-shaped friction groove reduces wear on the rope
- Dual slot design for single or double rope usage
- Suitable for various vertical endeavors and emergency services
Specifications
- Color: Red
- Dimension: 1.73Lx2.13Wx3.43H
Pros
- Lightweight and strong
- Suitable for a variety of uses
- Smooth and controlled descents
- Versatile with single or double ropes
Cons
- Possible quality issues with used or refurbished products
The WILDKEN Professional Rappel ATC Belay Device is a reliable and versatile safety equipment for various vertical activities. Its durability, lightweight design, and smooth descent process make it a valuable tool for climbers, arborists, rescuers, and workers at heights. However, potential concerns regarding the quality of used or refurbished products should be taken into consideration when making a purchase.
Overall Score: 8/10
The TRIWONDER ATC Belay Device is an essential tool for rock climbing and rappelling. Made of 7075 aviation aluminum, it is lightweight and portable while offering high strength and good toughness. The V-groove friction and double-rope holes prevent entanglement, and the device is compatible with 8-12mm single/double rope. It is perfect for outdoor activities such as camping, hiking, and setting up hammocks and tarps. Please note, this item is not intended for use as a mountaineering carabiner.
Key Features
- Material: Made of 7075 aviation aluminum
- Features: V-groove friction for slow downward effect
- Rope compatibility: Suitable for 8-12mm single/double rope
- Extensive applications: Ideal for outdoor activities
Specifications
- Color: Orange
Pros
- High strength and good toughness
- Lightweight and portable
- Prevents rope entanglement
- Compatible with various rope sizes
- Ideal for outdoor activities
Cons
- Not suitable for use as a mountaineering carabiner
The TRIWONDER ATC Belay Device provides great value for rock climbers and rappelling enthusiasts. Its high-quality construction, compatibility with various rope sizes, and portability make it a versatile and reliable tool for outdoor activities. While not suitable for mountaineering, it excels in its intended applications. Whether you’re a beginner or experienced climber, this belay device is a worthwhile addition to your gear collection.
Overall Score: 9/10
The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device is a versatile, high-quality device for rappelling, belaying, and ascending for activities such as climbing, hunting, and tree trimming. Its guide mode allows for belaying one or two seconding climbers off an anchor, and its multiple friction modes provide optimal stopping power when lowering or rappelling. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows the device to feed rope more easily, making it a favorite among climbers, law enforcement, and arborists. However, it may wear down relatively quickly with frequent use. This belay device is highly recommended for its excellent friction, control, and versatility across different activities.
Key Features
- Most versatile belay/rappel device from Black Diamond
- Oval-ized anchor-hole for easier rope feeding
- Multiple friction modes for optimal stopping power
- Guide mode allows for belaying one or two climbers
- Highly recommended for climbing, hunting, and tree trimming
Specifications
- Color: Anthracite
- Dimension: 14.37Lx11.22Wx1.18H
- Size: One Size
Pros
- Excellent friction and stopping power
- Versatile and recommended for various activities
- High quality and well built
Cons
- May wear down relatively quickly with frequent use
- Not suitable for all types of climbing setups
The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device is a top choice for climbers, hunters, and arborists. While it may wear down with frequent use, its excellent friction, control, and versatile applications make it a highly recommended belay device for various activities.
Overall Score: 9/10
The PETZL Verso Belay Device is a compact and lightweight belay device suitable for one or two rope strands while climbing or rappelling. The device features v-shaped friction grooves for controlled braking and is compatible with various rope sizes. It is user-friendly, durable, and is certified for safety. The PETZL Verso Belay Device is highly functional, durable and inexpensive, making it a great addition to any climbing gear.
Key Features
- User friendly with standard belay techniques
- Multi-use compatible for belay or rappel
- Lightweight and durable at only 55 grams
- Rounded design of rope slots limits wear
- Material(s): Aluminum frame; Certification(s): EN 15151-2, UIAA
Specifications
- Color: Green
- Dimension: 1.97Lx1.97Wx1.97H
- Size: Standard size
Pros
- Compact and lightweight design
- Rounded design extends device life
- Certified for safety
- Compatible with various rope sizes
- User-friendly for both belay and rappel
Cons
- Some customers received a different color than expected
The PETZL Verso Belay Device is a reliable and user-friendly device suitable for both beginner and experienced climbers. While some customers may have received a different color than expected, the functionality and durability of the device remain uncompromised. With its lightweight design and compatibility with different rope sizes, it is a valuable addition to any climbing gear setup.
Overall Score: 8/10
The Edelrid Jul 2 is a versatile and durable belay device suitable for indoor and gym climbing. With certification EN 15151 2 and a heavy-duty stainless steel core, it offers optimal brake adjustment and a comfortable grip. While easy to use for lead belaying, it may take some practice for a smoother descent. The device is compact and lightweight, making it a convenient tool for climbers. However, it is essential to pair the Jul 2 with a suitable steel carabiner due to its steel construction, as it may wear out aluminium carabiners over time.
Key Features
- Certification EN 15151 2
- Heavy duty abrasion-resistant stainless steel core
- Polyamide coating for a comfortable grip
- Optimal brake adjustment
- Faster emission of the rope ahead by holding the Ger tes
Specifications
- Color: Oasis
- Dimension: 3.00Lx2.00Wx1.00H
- Size: One Size
Pros
- Versatile for lead belaying in indoor and gym climbing
- Durable and compact
- Easy to use once familiar with the device
- Designed for optimal brake adjustment
Cons
- May take practice for a smoother descent
- Steel construction may wear out aluminium carabiners
The Edelrid Jul 2 is a reliable and durable belay device suitable for indoor and gym climbing. With a compact and lightweight design, it offers convenience and ease of use for lead belaying. However, users should be mindful of its steel construction potentially wearing out aluminium carabiners over time. Overall, it is a versatile and efficient tool for climbers seeking a reliable belay device.
Overall Score: 9/10
The BLACK DIAMOND Equipment ATC Belay/Rappel Device in Purple is a minimalist yet durable tool designed for handling ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm. Its unique geometry and large surface area ensures smooth handling and dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling. It comes in an attractive purple color and is available in one size. Customers are raving about its durability and reliability, making it a perfect choice for climbers of all levels.
Key Features
- Unique, smooth-handling geometry
- Minimalist design is durable in all conditions
- Large surface area dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling
- Handles ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
- Available for order by individual color
Specifications
- Color: Purple
- Dimension: 7.00Lx4.00Wx3.00H
- Size: One Size
Pros
- Durable and reliable
- Smooth handling of ropes
- Minimalist and lightweight design
Cons
- Not ideal for thinner ropes
- Some users find it challenging to feed the rope
The BLACK DIAMOND ATC Belay/Rappel Device in Purple is a top-quality product that delivers in terms of performance, durability, and reliability. While it may not be suitable for thinner ropes, its smooth handling, minimalistic design, and ability to dissipate heat make it an excellent choice for climbers. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, this belay/rappel device is a worthy addition to your gear collection.
What is a belay device?
- A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment used to control the rope during belaying. It is essential for ensuring the safety of both the climber and the belayer.
Types of belay devices
- *Tubular belay devices*: These are the most commonly used type of belay device. They have a slot for the rope and a metal loop for the carabiner.
- *Assisted braking belay devices*: These devices have a mechanism that helps to catch the rope in the event of a fall, providing an extra level of safety for the climber.
- *Figure-eight belay devices*: This type of device is named after its shape, and it is commonly used for rappelling and belaying.
Factors to consider when choosing a belay device
- *Type of climbing*: Consider what type of climbing you will be doing, as this will determine the most suitable belay device for your needs. For example, if you will be doing multi-pitch climbing, you may want a belay device with assisted braking for added safety.
- *Experience level*: Your level of experience as a climber and belayer will also influence your choice of belay device. Beginners may prefer a more straightforward tubular belay device, while more experienced climbers may opt for an assisted braking device for added security.
- *Rope compatibility*: It is essential to ensure that the belay device you choose is compatible with the diameter of the rope you will be using. This information can usually be found in the product specifications.
- *Weight and size*: Consider the weight and size of the belay device, especially if you will be carrying it on multi-pitch climbs or long approaches.
- *Price*: Belay devices vary in price, so consider your budget when making your choice. Keep in mind that a higher price does not necessarily guarantee better performance.
Safety tips for using a belay device
- *Proper technique*: Learn and practice proper belaying techniques to ensure the safety of both the climber and the belayer.
- *Regular inspection*: Regularly inspect your belay device for signs of wear or damage, and replace it if necessary. This is crucial for maintaining safety while climbing.
- *Instruction manual*: Always refer to the manufacturer's instruction manual for proper usage and maintenance of your belay device.
- *Training and certification*: Consider taking a belay certification course to ensure that you are using the device correctly and safely.
Care and maintenance of belay device
- *Cleaning*: Regularly clean your belay device to remove dirt and debris that can affect its performance. Use a mild detergent and water, and dry it thoroughly before use.
- *Storage*: Store your belay device in a dry, cool place to prevent corrosion and damage.
- *Inspection*: Before each use, inspect your belay device for any signs of wear or damage, such as cracks or sharp edges.
Conclusion
- Choosing the right belay device is essential for ensuring the safety of both the climber and the belayer. Consider factors such as the type of climbing, experience level, rope compatibility, weight and size, and price when making your choice. Always use proper safety techniques when using a belay device, and regularly inspect and maintain it to ensure its performance and longevity.
Frequently Asked Questions about Belay Device Review: A Comprehensive Analysis
A belay device is a piece of rock climbing equipment that is used to control the rope while climbing. It works by applying friction to the rope, which allows the belayer to stop the climber’s fall and lower them safely.
There are several different types of belay devices, including tube-style devices, assisted braking devices, and figure-eight devices. Each type has its own advantages and is best suited for different types of climbing.
Yes, using a belay device is extremely important for safety while rock climbing. It helps the belayer to control the rope and prevent the climber from falling too far if they slip or fall.
Yes, many belay devices can also be used for rappelling. They allow the climber to control their descent down the rock face, making rappelling safer and more controlled.
It’s important to always double-check that the belay device is properly set up before climbing. Additionally, it’s crucial to communicate effectively with your climbing partner and practice using the belay device before heading out on a climb.
